Simon Porte Jacquemus, the French designer and creative mastermind behind his namesake brand, describes himself as “happy, excited, impatient,”. A self-made unicorn in French fashion, the independent designer shows these exact attributes in his playful clothes, characterised by happy colours and disruptive shapes. What's more is that he pushes the boundaries with his presentations as seen during his 10th anniversary show in the South of France for SS20. The largely self-educated designer moved from southern France to Paris at the age of 18 and only a year later he launched his label, while at the same time working retail at a Comme des Garçons boutique. A protégé of Rei Kawakubo, Simon Porte Jacquemus is one of the most exciting designers working in fashion today. He was nominated for the LVMH Prize twice, picking up a special jury award of 150,000 euros and a mentorship for one year in 2015. Jacquemus’s aim is to create his own universe, and he likes to say “I don’t do clothes, I do stories.”
Spring / Summer 2020
The story of Jacquemus continues. For his 10th anniversary collection, he presented a sophisticated collection that was as light as a cocktail in summer. With the breathtaking backdrop of a field of purple lavender, on a hill meeting the bright blue Provençal sky, he rolled out the pink carpet for his male and female models. The collection was not only an ode to Jacquemus' roots in southern France, where he derives his inspiration and strength from as he says, but also to the seasons of spring and summer in general.
“I wanted a place that looked like a postcard — almost too much like a postcard, even. It was important to me to turn that cliché into something artistic, with that pink line running through the middle like a contemporary art installation by Christo, or a painting by David Hockney,” the designer told WWD. It was supposed to feel like a painting within a painting; Provençal Pop. The clothes were just as vibrant. Pink skirts and dresses were paired with great loose, tailored suits that could work on anyone. Hyper-sexy modern peasant dresses with ribbon straps to tie and untie; sheer knits; the art-heel shoes he’s invented; and the funny proportions of bags, from a shoulder tote as big as a tent to a “granny’s cake-tin” dangling from straps. His iconic micro-bag was naturally also present. Jacquemus' brand represents youth, sexiness, fun, and optimism—a mature brand with signatures and quirks all its own, that wants to give a positive message to the young generation. “I want to bring the sunshine—that’s it.”
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